From Beaches to Villages: My Cantabria Sketchbook
Last month we took our first trip since moving to Spain. After all the paperwork, starting a new job, and settling into a new place, we really needed a break. It was wonderful to step away from all those tasks and simply enjoy time with the kids. Luckily, the grandparents had been keeping them entertained while we managed the exhausting moving process, but it felt so nice to finally slow down, breathe in nature, and do activities together as a family.
We spent almost two weeks in Cantabria, a region in the north of Spain. Most of our time was in Santander, the main city, where a lovely friend kindly let me use her apartment. From there, we took day trips to nearby beaches like San Juan de la Canal, Usgo, and Mataleñas. I made several sketches of these places, though the ever-changing northern weather made it a real challenge. The light and colors shifted constantly, which pushed me to work quickly and capture the moment before it disappeared.
One of my favorite places of the trip was Comillas, a historic town on the Cantabrian coast known for its modernist architecture and aristocratic past. I really admire Gaudí (as you know from my earlier artwork of Park Güell), so visiting El Capricho was a must. Built between 1883 and 1885, this summer villa was one of Gaudí’s earliest works and is filled with his signature playfulness and attention to detail. We joined a family tour with a lovely guide who shared so many fun facts about the house — the kids loved it! The building has almost 7,000 sunflower tiles, each hand-painted. Since the original owner was a pianist, Gaudí even added musical details, such as a pentagram formed by tiles on the main façade and treble clefs in the railings. I only had about 20 minutes to sketch it, but it had been high on my “to-sketch” list, so I couldn’t miss the chance. I may redo it later in my studio, working from the photos I took, to add more detail.
We also visited the Centro Botín, a cultural center designed by Italian architect Renzo Piano and opened in 2017. It sits right on Santander’s waterfront and has quickly become an architectural landmark. Inside, it hosts art exhibitions, performances, and cultural events. That day I discovered the work of M. Vargas, a Spanish female artist I hadn’t known before but who really impressed me. An extended exhibition is coming soon to the Reina Sofía in Madrid, so I’ll definitely be seeing more of her work. Beyond the art, the building itself is spectacular, located right on the bay. The views from the rooftop terrace are stunning and make the visit even more worthwhile.
After our time in the city, we spent two nights in the Cabuérniga Valley, a rural valley in inland Cantabria known for its traditional villages and lush landscapes. Being surrounded by nature was so refreshing. We took slow walks along the river, spotted cows, horses, and other animals, and explored two old villages — Carmona and Bárcena Mayor. These towns are filled with picturesque stone houses, wooden balconies, and red-tiled roofs. Many of the homes are decorated with flowers, and of course, I couldn’t resist sketching some of my favorite subject matter: charming houses.
This trip left me full of inspiration and beautiful memories — and 11 new sketches in my sketchbook. Now we’re back in Madrid, fully inmersed in the begin the school year, but planning our next family trip.
